Mr Porter (UK) Article

How To Lace Your Boots

by Ian Fieggen (aka “Professor Shoelace”) from Melbourne, Australia

Introduction

Boots can be worn for a host of different reasons. Many are undoubtedly chosen for their utility, such as hiking boots or work boots. Others are specifically for fashion, such as dress boots or equestrian boots. Some, such as the iconic Dr Martens or [insert name here], manage to fill both roles.

In the same way, there is a wide variety of boot lacing methods, which can be selected for their utility or style. Anything from nondescript looking methods that are purely for comfort through to distinctive looking methods that will definitely get you noticed. The savvy boot wearer can lace their boots to suit a particular purpose or just to suit their personality. It’s the perfect “finishing touch” to any pair of boots.

Method 1

Most people (and most manufacturers) lace boots with good old-fashioned “Criss Cross Lacing”. It’s a simple, efficient method that has stood the test of time. At each pair of eyelets the shoelace ends cross each other and feed under the sides and out through the next higher pair of eyelets.

Method 2

My own preferred variation is “Over Under Lacing”, which alternates between crossovers on the inside and outside of the boot. This reduces friction because the shoelaces don’t rub across the edges of the boot, making it faster and easier to pull only every second crossover to tighten or loosen. It’s also easier to get fingers underneath those outer crossovers.

Method 3

“Straight European Lacing” is a blend of diagonal crossovers on the inside and straight sections on the outside. The inner diagonals make it tight and secure while the outer straight sections can be quickly cut through with a knife or scissors in order to more easily remove a boot from a broken, sprained or otherwise injured ankle or foot.

Method 4

Many armed forces (British, Dutch, French, Brazilian, to name a few) lace their combat boots with “Army Lacing”. At each pair of eyelets the shoelace ends cross each other on the inside of the boot, then run straight up the sides on the outside of the boot to the next higher eyelet pair. This allows the usually tough leather sides of the boots to flex more easily because they are not restricted by the crossovers (which are on the inside).

Method 5

US paratroopers and ceremonial guard units often wear the distinctive “Ladder Lacing”, not just for its looks but also because it forms a very firm lacing that holds tight. Start by forming a vertical section on each side between the bottom and second from bottom eyelets. At each eyelet pair, run the ends under the verticals on the opposite side before continuing up and into the next higher eyelet pair. The end result resembles a straight ladder.

Method 6

An even more distinctive military method is the angled “Spider Web Lacing”. Start by forming a vertical section on each side running down from the second from bottom eyelets to the bottom eyelets. Cross the ends and run diagonally up and out through the next vacant pair of eyelets. At each eyelet pair, run the ends straight down and under the verticals below before continuing diagonally up and out again. When done with white shoelaces against black boots, this lacing really lives up to its name, though it will mostly catch people’s eyes instead of insects.

Common Mistakes

To avoid a messy result, try to be consistent with crossovers. Either always cross left over right, or always right over left, or always alternate.

For a symmetrical look, reverse the crossovers on the other boot.

When tying, make sure you’re not inadvertently tying a “Granny Knot”, which both sits crooked and comes undone. A correctly tied shoelace knot should sit straight across the boot and stay secure. Better still, learn one of the many secure shoelace knots, which will survive any boot-related punishment.

“The Knack: How to lace your new boots”

SEPTEMBER 25, 2012

THE KNACK (AND HOW TO GET IT)
HOW TO LACE YOUR NEW BOOTS

By Mr Ian Fieggen (aka Professor Shoelace), Melbourne, Australia

[sketch of empty boots with no lacing]

THE FAIL-SAFE

Most people (and most manufacturers) lace boots with good old-fashioned criss-cross lacing, and for good reason: it’s a simple, efficient method that has stood the test of time. At each pair of eyelets the shoelace ends cross each other and feed under the sides and out through the next higher pair of eyelets. A no-brainer.

[sketch of Criss-Cross-laced boots]

FRICTION-FREE

My own preferred variation is “over-under lacing”, which alternates between crossovers on the inside and outside of the boot. This reduces friction because the shoelaces don’t rub across the edges of the boot, making it faster and easier to pull only every second crossover to tighten or loosen. It’s also easier to get fingers underneath those outer crossovers.

[sketch of Over-Under-laced boots]

ARMY-APPROVED

Many armed forces (British, Dutch, French and Brazilian, to name a few) lace their combat boots with “army lacing”. At each pair of eyelets the shoelace ends cross each other on the inside of the boot, then run straight up the sides on the outside of the boot to the higher eyelet pair. This allows the usually tough leather sides of the boots to flex more easily because they are not restricted by the crossovers (which are on the inside).

[sketch of Army-laced boots]

THE LADDER

US paratroopers often wear “ladder lacing”, not just for looks but also because it’s a very firm, secure style. It looks good on boots with lots of eyelets. Start by forming a vertical section on each side between the bottom and second-from-bottom eyelets. At each eyelet pair, run the ends under the verticals on the opposite side before continuing up to the next higher eyelet pair. The end result resembles a straight ladder.

[sketch of Ladder-laced boots]

CHARLOTTE'S WEB

“Spiderweb lacing” is not for the faint of heart. Start by forming a vertical section on each side, running down from the second-from-bottom eyelets to the bottom eyelets. Cross the ends and run diagonally up and out through the next pair. At each pair, run the ends down and under the verticals below before continuing diagonally up. With white shoelaces against black boots, this really lives up to its name, though it will mostly catch people’s eyes instead of insects.

[sketch of Spider-Web-laced boots]

“The Knack: How to lace your new boots”

Winter means boots, and lots of them. Boots can be worn for a host of different reasons; many are undoubtedly chosen for their utility, such as army boots or work boots, while it's the formality of others, such as dress boots or equestrian boots, which appeals. Meanwhile some, such as Diemme's hiking boots and Red Wing's biker boots, fill both these roles.

Just as there's a wide variety of boots, so there's a variety of ways to lace them. These can be selected for reasons of practicality or style; anything from unremarkable schemes that are worn purely for comfort, through to distinctive-looking patterns that will undoubtedly attract attention. A well-executed lacing pattern is the important finishing touch to any pair of boots, and indeed your outfit. Above are five contrasting techniques, some of which only you will appreciate, and some of which are likely to start some conversations.

fieggen.com/shoelace

TIPS & POINTERS

01. To avoid a messy result, try to be consistent with crossovers. Either always cross left over right, or always right over left, or always alternate.

02. For a symmetrical look, reverse the crossovers on the other boot.

03. When tying, avoid a “granny knot” or “slip knot”, which both sit crooked and come undone. A correctly tied shoelace knot should sit straight across the boot and stay secure.

04. Better still, learn one of the many secure shoelace knots, which will survive any boot-related punishment, whether you're out hiking, or riding your motorbike.

05. Different lacing methods will require different lace styles and lengths. For laces galore, go to mrlacy.com